HST Day 5 and 6

DAY 5:

   Since the previous day had really taken a toll on the knees of the group and we had an extra day built into the trip we decided to hang out at the Kern Campsite. The fact that there is a wonderful hot spring there helped make the decision a bit easier.

There was someone in it so I didn't get any close up shots like a creeper but that wooden structure on the right houses a cement tub which is fillable to the height and temperature you want.

I spent most of the day writing in my trip journal and taking photographs.

I'd slept under the stars the night before and it was wonderful.

Since fires were allowed here we burned a morning fire just for kicks. 

As I was tending to the morning fire I turned around and in the Manzanita bushes right behind me was a 5 foot timber rattlesnake.

Tail in this shot.

He's kind of hard to spot on account of being camouflaged for the environment but his head is in this shot.

Sorry about the crummy/awful/regrettable camera work on this video but I was trying to keep my distance and one eye on him.




In this particular camp we had the backcountry luxury of a toilet. These were the views.

How can you beat that?

To be honest I was a bit anxious sitting around all day but it was a good rest and I think it really benefitted the moral of the group.

   Towards evening we started to notice a hazy smoke that filled into the canyon. It smelled strongly and made the air a little acrid. Word around the camp was that the fire was far enough away to be no threat to us, the wind was just blowing the smoke up the canyon.

Day 6:

We resumed the hike. I was curious how the rest would affect us and whether or not it would be a good decision to waste a day lying around. I had hoped to put ourselves close to Mt Whitney with a day to spare in case the conditions weren't conducive to a climb but that day was now spent.
    The morning started out with the most level trail of the trip for a lovely 7.8 miles along the Kern River. The smoke still lingered so the photographs aren't that great from this day. Once I made it to Junction Meadow I took a break like I did at all junctions. I sat down in a lovely campsite and took a few shots.

 As I was sitting there eating more trail mix and bars (all I packed for lunches) I could swear I heard a whistling noise so I wrote a poem in my trail journal.

Junction Meadow:

This meadow isn’t.

More a plateau. 

Certainly a junction between;

creeks, canyons, rivers, trails.

This junction serenades me.

Trees click in soft breezes

as an old bearded man in a wide brimmed hat whistles

an aimless tune in a major key

Always in a major key.

As Matt came wandering up 30 minutes later he was whistling. Then Joe 15 minutes after Matt, also whistling. Adam 5 minutes later also whistling.

It was that kind of morning.

I told the guys that there was a big climb coming up from 8kft to 10+Kft in the next 4 miles. We set out up to Wallace Creek where we would join with the John Muir Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail. The climb was pretty tough since it was a hot smoky day but there were no storms on the horizon and we made it soon enough.

Kern Point and another distant long cascading waterfall.

Looking south into the smoke filled canyon we'd just climbed out of.

North the smoke wasn't as bad.

Matt resting at a junction and waiting for the TX boys.

Once we made it to Wallace creek there was a much different mood in the air. Things became a lot more crowded with the joining of the 3 trails. With the crowds there was more noticeable litter and noise. Since we'd gotten an early start and had a solid day of hiking we were there early enough to pick a prime spot near a meadow and the creek.

The sun set on a good day of hiking, we ate more dehydrated food and retired early. There are no campfires allowed over 10,200 ft because of the presence of the Foxtail Pine which is only found in 2 places in the world and is a close relative of the bristlecone pine. The trees can be up to 3,000 years old and their rings are excellent indicators of climactic events during their lifetime. All that combines to mean the parks don't want you collecting them or harming them for fires.

-RYAN

HST Day 3 and 4

So,
     Day 3 started off with a visit from this fellow.

We were told by a ranger the previous evening that we should get today done quickly since there were more thunderstorms in the forecast and we had to cross a nearly 11,000ft pass. We broke camp slowly and set out a bit later than I wanted. The hike started out just as stunningly beautiful as the day before. Today was supposed to be full of jaw dropping beauty.

First we made it to the Pine Creek crossing. In the 1940s the original steel bridge was washed out by what must have been a crazy flood. The canyon is probably 100ft deep so that must have been a ton of water.

The pine creek canyon.

Old Bridge

Matt filming on the new bridge.

We spent a lot of time here filming with the GoPros. Eventually I was able to get the crew to move along. We didn't get very far before the views became even more stunning.

Angel wing panorama

More obvious thunderstorms building.....

Valhalla

 We filmed some more.....

Then we set out again only to arrive at the incredibly beautiful Hamilton Falls.

The angel wing from the falls.

At the edge of the falls.

Looking down the falls.

It's tough to tell because it is so small but the falls start at the top of this shot and run all the way down.

Adam at the edge.

Camera at the edge.

Valhalla from the falls.

We filmed some more. Filtered water and took another break.

Next up was Hamilton Lake. If I did this trip again I would definitely stay here. It was incredible. In fact I would create a trip over a few days just to come here fish and spend more time in all of the Day 3 locations.

We had to hurry so despite protests from the group I pushed us past Hamilton lakes without getting out cameras. We had a huge climb coming up to get over the Kaweah Gap at 10,700 ft. We set out on the climb and thunder started to roll in the distance. As we climbed it became apparent the storms were coming but they weren't here yet. Some members of our group thought it would be a good idea to stop and see what the storms were doing at a nice sheltered spot along the trail. I was tired of being the drill sergeant so I obliged. When they built the trail they blasted a very short tunnel through a particularly difficult canyon wall. We stopped there. I took 2 shots of Hamilton lake from above.

Tunnel on left and shelter on right.

As you can see it was still sunny.....

We sat there and the GoPros came out. Soon a group of young ultra-lighters (packs under 20lbs) came by full of themselves stating they were going another 20 miles that day and they were just going to shoot the Kaweah Gap. (make a run for it before the storm) They said the storm would probably only get worse. After they left I restated my case to the group about needing to go now and get it done sooner rather than later. Voices other than mine must've worked because we set out.
     As soon as we approached the gap the skies opened up the temperatures dropped 30 degrees and the rain came down in sheets. Matt was able to keep up with me strangely during this part and when I asked him why he said "if lighting strikes I want to be near the next tallest guy just in case" - Thanks Matt.

As we made it to Precipice lake near the top the cameras came out despite the rain and thunder. Even I pulled mine out. It is such and incredible place.

After a few snaps I yelled at the group over the thunder that it was time to go. We kept pressing on. With the pass in view the thunder was 5 seconds away. I wanted to run for it but Matts resolve broke and he took cover under a rock. I went with him and Adam (knees) and Joe (lungs from living in TX and never being at 10k+ft before) caught up with us. The wind was chilling us to the bone and we were soaked so I grabbed the tent rainfly and wrapped myself up in it. Soon Joe and I were shivering uncontrollably. Figuring that the decision in front of me was a) run for the pass with the lightning still 5 miles away or b) stay here and get hypothermia. I stood up and stated "I can't wait anymore I've got to go. I think the best idea is to come with me" (heroic I know). I stowed the rainfly and ran for the pass. Once I'd gained the gap I looked down the canyon and saw the tree line. Trees would mean less chance of getting hit by lightning so I ran for that. I left the group in the dust and told them I'd meet them at the trees. Once there I stripped off my wet clothes and put on the dry clothes in my bag. (I put everything in my pack in a contractor trash bag and it kept everything inside dry. cost=$0.15, weight= 2 oz. booyah). I immediately felt better so I ate some food and waited for the rest of the group.

You can see the storm over the pass clearing in the back.

Everyone dried off and hung out to rest. There was a real sense of euphoric relief that soon washed over everyone. I took some shots.

When Matt caught up with us he was vomiting and couldn't keep anything down. I offered to run to camp find a spot to camp and run back to take his pack. Again I set off. The camp was a bit further than I'd expected. It turns out that the Tom Harrison Maps I had were contradicted by every trail sign we saw, Gaia on the Iphones, and My Garmin GPS. The Tom Harrison maps were about 20% short on mileage every day. Thats kind of a big deal. Any who. I ran to camp and it was full because everyone else was smart enough to make it over the pass early. I dropped my pack next to the bear box and ran back. When I got back to Matt it had been discovered that he'd been adding some kind of vitamin powder to his water. He hadn't had an actual sip of water all day. They'd gotten him to drink plain water and he was immediately able to keep it down and felt better. So he and his pride carried his pack into camp. We set up, ate our warm meals and went to bed.
    This day was incredible. The scenery, adventure, effort and fear all added up to a day I don't think any of us will ever forget.

Day 4: We woke early. It seems that yesterdays situation finally helped everyone get on the same page about keeping a good pace and getting an early start. We cooked breakfast with views like this.

We set out early. This day was also lovely and compared to the previous day it was really relaxing.

Everyone was feeling good and keeping a good pace on the relatively flat high plateaus. We found a great spot to eat lunch and dry out all of our gear right next to the above meadow.

Passersby noted it looked like a yard sale in the forest.

Everything dried out and we set out again. Joe was keeping pace with me so we cruised. Matt and Adam had both told us they would be along when they got there and we didn't need to wait up. I set a policy that we'd always wait for each  at junction. This was agreed to and made for everyone being able to go their own pace, enjoy some solitude and relax a bit more.

old burn area and now new tree nursery.

The last part of the day was an elevation loss of 3,200ft into the Kern Trench.

Once again the trail was spectacular. I cruised down the switchbacks and found the junction with the Kern River trail. I waited. Joe showed up completely hobbled about 1 hour later. He thinks he strained his knee trying to keep up with me earlier in the day and then the huge elevation loss pounded his knee into pulp. Matt and Adam already were hurting so they rolled in even later. We walked the last 1.8 miles to the Kern Hot Springs campground. It was beautiful and the guys who were all behind me all had rattlesnake experiences in the canyon. I didn't. yet.

These 2 days we incredible.

Ryan

p.s. Candice. This may not sound fun to you but man it was awesome. I'd do almost all of it (except for the doubting and bad decisions) again in a heartbeat.